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Wednesday, May 8, 2013

What Indian dress designers dont understand when they create clothes from women.


(The followingt post is a guest post by Archana Venkat)

I hate shopping for clothes for myself. Myntra and Jabong (and FlipKart and whatever else is there) don’t make a difference. Readymade clothes rarely fit me well. I used to wear trousers and shirts to work a few years ago (before my pregnancy) and even then finding a shirt that dint expose your bottom or a trouser that didn’t look like yoga pants/ tights was tough and I had to resort to getting both items of clothing stitched. I guess my tailor couldn’t overcome the torture and eventually shut shop and left me dealing with Salwar Kameezes. While I try and avoid looking Aunty-ish, people tell me Salwar Kameez IS Aunty wear, no two ways about it. So I went back to trying maternity trousers, but because I didn’t have a bump anymore, they wouldn’t fit.

I decided to confront the problem head on – by seeking out a clothes designer. Recommended by a friend, I called her store only to have the saleswoman ask me “what shape are you?”. Well, large. Ok, maybe extra-large. But beyond that I didn’t know what to tell her, especially after she insisted that I was telling her my size and not my shape. Needless to say I didn’t see the designer because I felt a little embarrassed. But the question left me curious.

In India we recognize only 3 female shapes – thin, medium and fat. In my eyes these three translate roughly into “emaciated”, “thin” and “normal”. Most clothes are made for thin people and look good only on them. As for the rest of us, well, Indian clothing companies don’t care. They would rather we be inspired to get thin and fit into the clothes they make.

But apparently the rest of the world doesn’t abide by this philosophy and there are enough sizes to cater to all shapes. A few companies have gone forward and created online tools to help people understand what their shape is and what clothes would make them look good. One such company, Eloquii, a US based clothing retailer, has developed a tool on its website called Shape My Style that helps figure out the best clothes for one’s body shape. They help one identify five body shapes – Diamond, Teardrop, Heart, Infinity, and Emerald – based on simple questions.  For each of these shapes they have a set of guidelines indicating what cuts, colors, fits and accessories would look best and follow that up by recommending a set of clothes from their which can be bought online. What’s more they have models closely resembling your body type wearing their collection so you can see how the clothes will fit you. (Which means, fat women, don’t have to see stick thin women modeling clothes prescribed for them, because a XXXL version of a dress that was originally designed for a XS size will fit poorly).

In my opinion, this site is geared for success because they have information that empowers customers across their purchase lifecycle without forcing them to buy anything.

UK-based fashionistas Trinny Woodhall and Susannah Constantine, in their book The Body Shape Bible, have identified 12 body shapes that can help women find the right clothes. There is also a quiz that can help you figure out which of these shapes you fit into.

Of course, a good tailor / dress designer should be able to give you all this information offline, but not without charging a hefty fee. And because most of us in India cannot afford designers or high end tailors, we are left to wallow in ill fitting clothes and self pity. Which brings me to the question -why aren’t Indian retailers investing in any online tools/ tips like this?

I don’t have any answers but would like to know.

Archana Venkat is a marketing and communication specialist who writes at Straight talk with Arch.

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