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Saturday, February 4, 2012

Paithani Sarees: A legacy of the ancient India.




(Image source: ibtimes)


Genelia D’Souza recently painted the town red by wearing ahand crafted Paithani saree designed by Neeta Lulla for her wedding. Kajol had done the same earlier for her wedding with Ajay Devgn.
Paithani Saree a legacy from the days of ancient India, is actually handmade rich sarees made in Paithan near Aurangabad in Maharashtra.

There was a time when the silk used in a Paithani saree used to come from China but today the silk is sourced from Bangalore.

Paithani is characterised by borders of an oblique square design, and a pallu with a peacock design. Plain as well as spotted designs are available. Among other varieties, single colored and kaleidoscope-colored designs are also popular. The kaleidoscopic effect is achieved by using one color for weaving lengthwise and another for weaving widthwise.

The saree form almost died out but has been revived thanks to the efforts of a few designers led by Ritu Kumar.

But the history of the Paithani saree goes back more than 2000 years.
Paithan, at one time was visited by Greek traders between 400 to 200 B.C during the Satvahana era for the Paithani weave. The exquisite silk from Paithani was exported to many countries and was traded for gold and precious stones. This weaving tradition has survived over 2000 years and has been contemporarised to suit modern tastes.

Paithani sarees were worn by royalty, and were treated as heirlooms. These could take months to weave. Motifs of parrots and flowers are very popular and many of the motifs used on a Paithani sari are derived from the Ajanta Caves.
The technique is found in Central Asia, Egypt and Latin American textiles. In Central Asia it was initially woven in wool. Later, the technique was developed in China for intricate silk weaves.

It is possible that this technique came to India from Central Asia and was developed into a fine art in the Deccan. Saris from the end of the previous century and the beginning of this century, which are associated with Paithan and Hyderabad, are in a thick rich silk in royal colours like purple, maroonish red and orange with a gold metal border of thread. They usually had a gold pallu with a border pattern of curving leaves and flowers on all four sides often with a central buta of a stylised flowering shrub. A genuine handwoven Paithani can take anything from two months to a year to produce.
(Source: http://test.timenstyle.com/article/6/201105192011051917463976744d2f14d/Heritage-in-a-Sari.html)

The cost of a Paithani saree could vary from Rs 6000 to almost 7-7 Lakh, depending the quality of the silver and gold used. Also the hand work adds considerable cost to the saree.

At a recent marriage I saw the bride carry a saree from almost every popular form of saree weaving in India. I think this is an excellent way of preserving our culture and giving away traditional gifts like a Paithani saree for such occasions. Most of us often wonder what formal gifts can be given to female relatives and friends. A gift like a Paithani Saree can be an excellent choice.

2 comments:

  1. It is so good to see the revival of our ancient art forms, thanks to the efforts of people like Genelia, Ritu and many others. And thanks to you too for bringing this out here. Wonderful read!

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  2. Hi Arti

    I agree, Ritu Kumar has been responsible for reviving many Indian art forms, including the Paithani saree. I sometimes feel we underestimate the role played by the fashion industry in supporting small indian handicrafts.

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